Tweed & Bouclé: The Classic Cardigan Jacket
by Kathryn Brenne
  • Introduction
  • Design Details and Style
  • Suitable Patterns, Alterations and Fabrics
  • Preshrinking the Fabrics
  • Needles and Thread
  • Layout and Cutting
  • Hand Stitches - Part 1
  • Hand Stitches - Part 2
  • Marking, Stay & Intefacing
  • Quilting
  • Side Seams
  • Buttons
  • Buttonholes
  • Hems
  • Finishing the Edges
  • Trim
  • Pockets
  • Setting a Sleeve & Finishing the Lining
  • Cleaning & Care
  • Order of Assembly
  • Kathryn's Vintage Garment Collection
  • Kathrynís Vintage Garment Collection - more photos
  • Kathrynís Plaid Tweed Jacket



  • sewing tutorials
  • sewing guides 2004-2009
  • inspiration
  • fabric store
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    Vintage Chanel Pret-a-Porter Jacket, late 1970's

    Late 1970's quilted Chanel jacket

    The wool jacket is quilted to the silk habotai lining. There is no interfacing used in the garment. A small shoulder pad has been inserted. Five machine keyhole buttonholes down the front of the garment and two on each sleeve vent. The buttons are black with a gold lion's head. Welt pockets are trimmed with braid. The braid is comprised of a ribbon that feeds through a black wool trim and then is applied on top of a matching black wool braid insertion trim.

    The garment has been lengthened. I am guessing it was sent back to Chanel to do the alteration as a new piece of braid was inserted from one side seam to the center back. A piece of grosgrain ribbon was sewn to the bottom of the jacket. The trim was applied to the ribbon to lengthen the jacket. As a result no gold chain is in the jacket today.

    The sleeve is a two-piece sleeve with a working vent.


    Inside of jacket showing quilting lines on silk habotai lining. Note that there is no quilting in the pocket area.

    Inside of jacket showing Chanel ready to wear label on back of garment. Note the alteration which added a grosgrain ribbon to the bottom of the jacket to lengthen it.

    Side and Back views of jacket show how well the tweed fabric has been matched.

    Sleeve has a working two button vent.

    Trim detail. The alteration required a new piece of trim which was inserted here from side seam to center back. It matched quite well but is slightly different.

    Button detail of lion's head gold on a black background button.
    Vintage Chanel Couture Jacket, late 1980's

    Late 1980's Couture Chanel jacket with made to match trim. Jacket is darted in the front.

    This beautiful couture blue and lavender houndstooth wool jacket is lined with silk crepe de chine. It has hand-worked buttonholes with seven down the front of the garment, four on the pockets and four on each sleeve. Interestingly, the buttonholes on the sleeves are slightly different than those found on the garment leading me to believe that they were stitched by a different finisher. The buttons are large half ball acrylic with gold CC's embedded in them.

    The jacket is trimmed with a loopy fringe trim that was made to match the fabric. It is hand stitched to the garment.

    The jacket has a front facing as well as a facing for the sleeve hem and vent. There is hair canvas in the pockets and down the front of the jacket. I can feel a very wide 6" hair canvas hem interfacing in the jacket and a 3" wide interfacing in the sleeve hems. The garment is not quilted. The silk lining is pick-stitched around the neck and sleeve hems only.

    There is a gold chain weight applied to the hem of the garment. Each link of the chain has been stitched to hold it in place. The silk lining has a pleat at center back. The couture label is quite different than those found in ready-to-wear garments. The sleeve is a three piece sleeve with a working vent and heavily padded shoulders.


    Back view showing princess seams.

    Side view showing 3 piece sleeve with working four button vent.

    The jacket includes 19 handworked buttonholes.

    Pocket detail - pockets are hand stitched to the garment. Trim is hand stitched to the garment.

    Button detail

    Gold chain is sewn to the garment with a double thread through each link top and bottom.

    Couture label with bolduc number handwritten beneath the label.

    Couture label
    Vintage Chanel Ready-to-Wear Jacket, 2001

    This cropped wool jacket is lined with a silk jacquard lining. It has a trim of black and red cut on the bias from matching fabric. The raw edges of the red trim are finished with a very narrow row of serging. The trim has then been applied to the black fabric and sewn to the garment.

    The sleeve is a three-piece sleeve with no vent. There is a small shoulder pad in the garment.

    The closure is a 5 button machine made keyhole buttonhole hidden placket. The buttons are flat 4 hole black with a small gold CC on them.

    The chain has been hand stitched to the hem allowance of the garment but it is so light weight in comparison to the thicker fabric that it serves no purpose as a weight.

    This jacket is part of a suit comprised of a matching short, pleated skirt and wide black leather cummerbund belt.


    Ready to wear 2001 suit consisting of cropped jacket, leather waist cincher belt and pleated skirt.

    Side view of 3 piece sleeve. There is no vent on this sleeve.

    Trim detail. The trim is fringed at the bottom of the front.

    Button detail. Gold CC on shiny black button.

    Trim detail including a 5 button hidden placket closure.

    Back of jacket has princess seams.

    Inside silk jacquard lining with Chanel ready to wear label.
      
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