Moleskin
by Shannon Gifford
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  • Moleskin

    Moleskin is a densely woven synthetic microfiber with a suede-like finish on the right side of the fabric. It does not wrinkle, does not shrink, has a luxurious texture, and comes in a variety of colors and prints.

    Treatment

    Machine wash, cold water, cool dryer, no bleach

    Needles

    Use a microtex sharp needle, size 70/10 or 80/12 for best results. Cotton covered polyester or all polyester thread.

    Interfacing

    For a lightweight interfacing, use So Sheer or another lightweight knit fusible interfacing For a more substantial interfacing (like a crisp collar), use fusible tricot in a medium weight, such as Fusi-Knit.

    Seams

    Long seams may have a tendency to pucker; reduce this possibility by using the smallest needle possible for your fabric, and use a zigzag stitch (2.0 length, 1.5 or 1.0 width) for construction. There are several options for hems: topstitch with a matching thread, use a twin needle hem (2.0/80 for the best results), or fuse the hem with a fusible seam tape. This fabric sometimes does ravel, so a seam finish will be necessary. Use a fell seam, a mock fell seam, or zigzag across the raw edges of the seam allowance to prevent ravelling. If you have a serger, use a 2 or 3 thread balanced stitch for finishing seams. Keep finishes lightweight to prevent show-through in the front.

    Pattern choices

    Tailored shirts, dresses, jackets, lightweight coats (if lined), skirts, pants, vests, tops, hats.

    Creative possibilities

    Use the "wrong" side of the moleskin, which has a somewhat shiny surface, as a perfectly matching trim for your moleskin garment.

    Additional Tips:

    Because this is a synthetic fabric, seams will often not remain flat after pressing. If you have a seam which must remain flat permanently, either topstitch the seam flat or fuse it in place with fusible webbing strips (Steam a Seam is a good brand).

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