Doublecloth
by Shannon Gifford
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  • Doublecloth

    This fabric is a real gem: two layers of fabric, stitched together to be treated as one layer! You'll see it in high-end ready-to-wear, as elegant pieces that appear to have no visible seams or inner workings. The classic construction methods for this fabric take some time to accomplish, but are not difficult to do. Once you wear a garment made from this luscious fabric, you'll love the luxurious feel!

    Pretreatment:

    Dry clean only

    Needles and Thread:

    Universal needles, size 70/10, 75/11, or 80/12 are the best choices for doublcloth. Choose the smaller needles for the finer versions of this fabric.

    Seams, Seam Finishes, and Hems:

    Seams and seam finishes are constructed together in this fabric. First, mark the actual seamline on the fabric with basting. Gently remove the interior stitching by pulling the layers apart and trimming the hairs of thread with sharp scissors. Stitch your seams with the right sides of the fabric together, but only catch the outer layers of the fabric in this stitching. Then turn under the two inner layers of fabric and hand-stitch them to cover the construction seam. The appearance is clean, beautiful, and elegant. Hems are constructed in the same manner as seams.

    Interfacing:

    Interfacing is not generally used in this fabric. Rather than deal with the need for this extra structural material, choose a pattern that does not have the need for interfacing. If you do find a need for interfacing, a sew-in interfacing such as silk organza is preferred.

    Pattern Suggestions:

    Depending upon the weight, coats, hats, capes, gloves, scarves, jackets, vests, skirts, dresses (in lighter weight doublecloth fabrics)

    Creative possibilities:

    Insert piping or trim in the seams for an elegant, designer touch

    Additional Tips:

    Use a press cloth when pressing seams in this fabric. I also like to use a smaller seam allowance (1/2" or smaller) when constructing garments of doublecloth.

    Copyright (c) 2018 by EmmaOneSock