Tweed & Bouclé: The Classic Cardigan Jacket
by Kathryn Brenne
  • Introduction
  • Design Details and Style
  • Suitable Patterns, Alterations and Fabrics
  • Preshrinking the Fabrics
  • Needles and Thread
  • Layout and Cutting
  • Hand Stitches - Part 1
  • Hand Stitches - Part 2
  • Marking, Stay & Intefacing
  • Quilting
  • Side Seams
  • Buttons
  • Buttonholes
  • Hems
  • Finishing the Edges
  • Trim
  • Pockets
  • Setting a Sleeve & Finishing the Lining
  • Cleaning & Care
  • Order of Assembly
  • Kathryn's Vintage Garment Collection
  • Kathrynís Vintage Garment Collection - more photos
  • Kathrynís Plaid Tweed Jacket

  • sewing tutorials
  • sewing guides 2004-2009
  • inspiration
  • fabric store
    Needles and Thread

    My favorite needles to use for this project:

    • For the machine quilting and garment construction I used a Universal size 70 needle. To sew the seams in the silk lining, I used a Universal size 60 needle.
    • To thread trace the seams and baste the lining to the fabric, I used a John James long darner needle size 9.
    • For other hand work like attaching the pockets, hemming and finishing the lining I used a John James straw needle in size 9.
    • If I need to put in a row of basting by hand and don't want any holes to show in the silk, I will use a very fine size 11 beading needle and 100 weight silk thread.
    • For pinning I use .5mm silk pins.

    My favorite threads to use for this project:

    • Tire 100% silk 50 weight machine twist for quilting, machine work and fine hand work when I want the stitches to disappear into the fabric
    • 100% silk buttonhole twist for hand worked buttonholes
    • Gutermann gimp for reinforcing buttonholes
    • 100% cotton basting thread in white or cream for thread tracing and hand basting
    • 100% cotton basting thread in yellow to mark alterations and changes
    • 100% silk 100 weight thread for basting on silk to prevent the thread from leaving a hole or mark in the silk
    • Gutermann 100% polyester all purpose thread for sewing on buttons, hemming

    See below for a list of suppliers for these hard-to-find items!

    Machine Set Up and Feet

    For quilting the lining to the fabric use a 1/4" foot and engage the dual feed mechanism on your machine, if available. Alternately, you could use a walking foot, which will help the layers to feed evenly. Although I made hand worked buttonholes, I used an automatic buttonhole foot to ‚Äėbaste' in a buttonhole first. (See technique in Buttonholes section.)

    Supplies & Suppliers

    Supplies from left to right: Yellow Basting Cotton, Cream Basting Cotton,
    Gutermann 100% Polyester thread, 100 weight Silk thread, 50 weight Silk machine
    twist, Silk buttonhole thread, Lond Darner and Straw needles
    Silk ThreadSuperior Threads
    GimpB. Black and Sons
    Basting CottonMacCulloch & Wallis
    ChainPacific Trimming
    MJ TrimM & J Trimmng
    MokubaMokuba NY
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